Royal Lao life in this laidback paradise

LUANG Prabang was once home to the nation's royal family. The socialist state no longer supports royalty but some 5.6 million Lao people call home this country that is one of the region's poorest.

Like many poor nations, Lao Peoples' Democratic Republic happily welcomes tourist who inject much needed foreign exchange into the economy.

Luang Prabang is the jewel in the nation's tourism crown and attracts tens of thousands of tourists each year. They come to appreciate the laid-back lifestyle, the former vestiges of royalty, many ancient Buddhist temples, a collection of stylish boutique hotels and some ultra chic restaurants...more

Since Laos relaxed it's tourism policies and opened its doors to more tourists over the past few years, it has become one of Indochina's hottest destinations. Perhaps it is the mystique of this small-landlocked nation situated between Thailand and China, maybe it's the history or possibly it's just that more travellers these days are interested in getting off the well-trodden travel trails of Asia.

While the development in Luang Prabang has made noticeable modifications, very little has changed in the urban fabric since I was last there some 12 years ago. This is mostly due to Luang Prabang obtaining World Heritage status in 1995, and the rigid adherence to a masterplan that protects the town from rampant and irresponsible development. While chic boutique hotels offer some very smart designer accommodation, the facades of most historic buildings remain intact.

Laos has experienced a turbulent history and the Luang Prabang monarchy became so weak and ineffective that it was forced to pay tribute to various foreign forces, from the Thais, Burmese to the Vietnamese. After being attacked in 1887 the kingdom accepted the protection of the French. The last king died in 1959 and the subsequent communist uprising in the country meant that the royal family would never rule again.

These days, princely travellers have several choices for accommodation in the royal town including Maison Souvannaphoum, once the royal residence of Prince Souvanna Phouna, and the stylish and chic The Aspara.

When you arrive at both properties you know they are out of the ordinary. Maison Souvannaphoum is managed by Angsana Hotels and Resorts (part of the Banyan Group) so guests should expect the unexpected in a country that is full of pleasant surprises. While retaining the residence's architectural integrity there are splashes of colour to arouse the senses. Bright orange is the colour of choice and the stunning orange perspex wall in each bathroom introduces contemporary style to the building's heritage qualities.

A short distance across town (nothing is more than 10 minutes away in Luang Prabang), overlooking the Khan river, The Apsara has been described as the most chic place in town. There's only one problem for design-conscious travellers they may check in and never want to leave.

The streetside restaurant at The Apsara features both western and eastern cuisine including four-course set meals from an astonishing US$12 ($18).

Each room in the house has been decorated with four-poster beds, antique teak furniture and luxurious teak-lined bathtubs, while air conditioning and hot water keep guests in touch with the comforts of contemporary travel.

There is also an abundance of budget accommodation for backpackers who flock here in droves as part of their Indochinese tour of duty. Simple, clean accommodation is available in any number of 20 or so guesthouses established in converted homes. The good news is that rates start from just US$5 a night.

Not only is Luang Prabang a stylish retreat where life moves at a very simple pace (heavy vehicles are not allowed in the historic precinct) but its compact size makes it easily negotiable either on foot or bicycle, which can be rented for just US$1 per day.

Visitors should take time out to enjoy a little sightseeing along the historic streets with rests in between to partake of some delicious Lao coffee, soothing fruit shakes, shopping for intricate hill tribe embroided products and to relax beside the mighty Mekong river at sunset to enjoy some spicy Lao cuisine.

While moving around Luang Prabang is uncomplicated, getting there is not so easy and that's what makes it so appealing only the truly dedicated make the effort. This is the place for independent travellers armed with the last copy of the Lonely Planet. Tour bus groups are not part of the Luang Prabang scene yet and hopefully won't ever be thanks to well-established Unesco development procedures.

The quickest, easiest and most expensive way to arrive is by Lao Aviation on one of several daily 40-minute flights from capital Vientiane. There are also international flights from Bangkok and Hanoi.

The overland alternatives from the capital include buses, mini vans or private vehicle with a driver. Such journeys take from eight to 11 hours and while much cheaper, take a very circuitous but scenic route.

Adventurous travellers can take the two-day boat journey from northeast Thailand along the Mekong river. There are several options from luxurious travel, tourist boats and local public boats.

Like much of Laos, travellers arriving by boat have to endure a little hardship. However, travelling here is well worth the effort as there are few places in Asia where life moves at such a relaxed pace. The Brunei Times

by David Bowden

KUALA LUMPUR


Source: The Brunei Times

The saying goes that if the hard-working Vietnamese sew the rice, Cambodia's creative types would plant it in pretty rows, while their relaxed Laotian neighbours watch it grow. And nowhere is this south-east Asian stereotype truer than in Laos.

From lazy trips down the Mekong to sipping green tea against the backdrop of crumbling post-French grandeur in Luang Prabang, this rural gem of a country offers you the chance to step back and unwind on an active holiday with a supremely laid-back twist... more

Cross the Mekong from Chiang Khong in northern Thailand to Huay Xai and you can get a two-week visa on arrival, or you can arrange a month's stay before you leave Thailand. It will be two days on the slow boat with an overnight stop before you reach Luang Prabang, but well worth the effort. What this journey lacks in comfort - more than you can imagine - it certainly makes up for in scenery. Moody grey-brown waters carry you relentlessly forward through Laos' green hills.

However, if you would rather reach Laos in more comfort, a flight from Bangkok is the easiest way. Thai Airways and Lao Airlines will get you to the capital Vientiane in little over an hour.

It is hard to imagine a town more perfect than Luang Prabang. The elegant simplicity of the Buddhist temples stand in stark contrast to their golden counterparts in Thailand or India, and the crumbling opulence of the French era leaves a stylish atmosphere you will struggle to find elsewhere in Asia. Foodies should head down to the river where there is a great BBQ joint. Be bold, for this is the place to try buffalo, chicken's feet and all manner of insect-related delicacies.

The breathtaking Kuang Si waterfalls are about 40 minutes drive south of town and you can get a lift with a tour guide. Threeland Travel are most helpful, or alternatively you can take a local tuk-tuk at break-neck speed down a dirt track road to this postcard from paradise.

After a surreal walk through a mini zoo, you will find perfect blue-green lagoons for swimming and several tiers of waterfalls to play with. If you fancy yourself as a Herbal Essences lady, then test your endurance under one of the falls - you will not last long.

From Luang Prabang let the adventure take you to Phonsavanh and the plain of jars. The clue is in the name here and you can expect hundreds and hundreds of huge stone jars of disputed origin. Some believe they were used as burial sites, others that they were used to store rice wine - something of a national obsession.

Having tried this potent spirit, you may not want to imagine a container this size full of it, particularly since your guide is likely to have offered up a swig at breakfast time. You should note that a tour guide is needed for this trip and you should not stray from marked paths as Uncle Sam bombed the area heavily during the Vietnam War leaving a disastrous amount of unexploded ordnance as his legacy. Stone Henge this is not, but it is well worth a look.

From Phonsavanh, whether your active holiday takes you south to the 4,000 islands of Si Phan Don or west to the limestone peaks of Vang Vieng, count on two things: the omnipresent Mekong and natural treasures untold.

For more information on visiting Laos see the official Laos tourism website and the travelbite country guide.

Amy Morris
Source: www.travelbite.co.uk